Congratulations! You are now in control of YOUR house!
Whether it is your first home purchase or life had a change in mind for you, you now control more than just the Thermostat. So what are the most important things to know about your home? Below, we help you identify the top 10 most important parts of your home. Many of these items will be identified during a home inspection, but sometimes they get lost in the shuffle. Got something you want to add to the list? Don’t agree? Let us know!
#1) Water Shut Offs: Managing water leaking or change a fixture
Do you want to change out that old, out-dated kitchen sink for one with modern appeal? Or does it have a slow drip that bangs like a drum in the middle of the night? Or did you try to hang a towel rod in the bathroom and now have uncontrolled water flowing through the walls?
Your house will have a main shut off and several local shut offs. There are different styles and types of shut offs. The main shut off will be located directly before or after your water meter. This is for larger, non localized leaking. Typically found in the cabinetry under your sink, you will find two (hot and cold) shut offs that will localize and shut off the corresponding fixture.
#2) Gas Shut Offs: Does it smell like gas to you? Ready to upgrade the Dryer or Oven?
Another important item to know about are gas shut offs. If you believe you have a gas leak with no knowledge as to why, exit the building and call your supplier. Every local gas supplier will come to your home and test if you think you have a gas leak. They are friendly and knowledgable, and you should not feel ashamed to call them. (Even I have called Nicor before.)
Your house will have a main gas shut off and several local shut offs. There should be a localized shut off within 3 feet and in the same room as the appliance that it serves. The gas will need to be turned off before changing or servicing Ranges, Ovens, Fireplaces, and Dryers.
#3) Light Bulbs: Why so many types, volts, watts?
Got burned out bulbs? Changing the bulb is easier when you know what bulbs to buy. Light bulbs come in different types: Incandescent, Fluorescent or Compact Fluorescent (CFL), Light Emitting Diode (LED), and Halogen.
Light bulbs have different base sizes: Typically a Letter/Number combo: A19 or E26.
Volts are either 120v or less (12v) depending on the fixture it is going in.
Watts: One way to think about watts is amount of heat the bulb puts out. Halogens produce the most heat, and LEDs produce the least. A 75w bulb is going to be brighter than a 40w because more energy is being used in the bulb. It is important to note that you MUST check the light fixtures max capacity for Watts before putting a 75w bulb into something rated for 40w, as it may melt or burn its surroundings. LEDs have very low watt ratings and will state what their equivalency is to an incandescent bulb.
#4) Gutters and Downspouts: Water, water, everywhere...
Gutters and downspouts do get clogged and they do need to be kept clean. Roofs shed water to the gutters; gutters to the downspouts; and downspouts away from the foundation. All of these need to work together to keep water out of your house. If not, wood rot, mold, or even foundational sinking can occur. Keeping them clean and operational can save you money long-term.
#5) Caulk: Do your best and Caulk the rest!
Got a gap to fill? Another overwhelming isle in the hardware store, next to the paint, is the caulk section. There are different types of caulk with many different usages, depending on how permanent or flexible you need to fill the gap. Ranging least to most rigid: acrylic caulk, acrylic caulk with silicone, 100% silicone (interior & exterior), silicone with adhesive, construction adhesive (not caulk but looks like it).
Interior use not in contact with water = Painters caulk or caulk with acrylic.
Interior countertops, sinks, showers, areas in contact with water = 100% Silicone
Exterior windows, doors, siding = Silicone with flexibility due to wide temperature exposure
If you are using caulk with adhesive = plan on not removing what you installed as easily.
Construction adhesive = do not plan on removing it without destroying it.
#6) Grounded & GFCI Outlets: Upgraded protection through the years
Outlets and receptacles have come a long way in safety since the original 2 prong versions. We now have grounded 3 prongs to protect sensitive and expensive electronic equipment like TV’s and computers. GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) detect when electricity is not returning to its intended path. Each has a Test and a Reset button. If a surge occurs, it will “trip” and cut off electricity to protect you. It can be reset to restore electricity.
#7) Breakers: When things go wrong
Your house will have a main electric service panel which holds all of your breakers. It will have a main breaker, which turns off power to your entire house, or smaller breakers, which control smaller runs of electricity. In older homes you may not be able to run multiple appliances at the same time, like dishwasher and microwave, causing the breaker to trip and cutting off power to protect the equipment. Isolated events that cause tripping can be reset by full turning the breaker off and then back into ON position. Breakers tripping repetitively should be further investigated.
#8) Dryer Lint and Vents: Needs regular cleaning
Running your clothes dryer generates lint. Lint traps should be cleaned every 1 to 3 cycles. If lint traps do not get cleaned out on a routine basis, lint will begin to build up within the vent tubing. Best case, this will increase drying time, causing clothes to dry slower. Worst case, a large amount of lint build up is very flammable, can ignite, and can cause a house fire. Every 5 to 7 years, vent tubing should be cleaned out in its entirety.
#9) A/C Filters: Change every month per inch of thickness
Furnace and Air Conditioners cycle air throughout your home. In order to help keep the equipment and your breathing air clean, filters are installed on the return air side. The general rule is that filters should be replaced per 1in of thickness. So a 1in thick filter should be replaced every month and a 4in thick filter every 4 months. If not replaced, dirt, dust, pet hair, or other particles fill the filter and choke the unit’s ability to cycle the air, causing it to over work. This causes damage to the unit or possible condensation to build up leaking to other areas of the house.
#10) Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors: When they yellow, don't let them mellow.
Did you know smoke detector manufacturers actually make it so they yellow and discolor over time? Their thought is the uglier they look, the more likely people are to replace them with fresh ones. Smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors are very important safety systems to have properly working inside your home. As someone who has been victim to carbon monoxide poisoning, it happens quickly and takes over your senses.
Pictured here are two styles: battery powered and hardwired.
